Rosh Pinah to Aussenkehr - 111km

Day 12: 7th September2014

The road from Rosh Pinah to Assenkehr

We start up early as usual but with a less hurried pace as our maps indicate 80km. That was not to be so - yet again. We drive out of the farm for  14km to the main road to Aussenkehr, but not before we have our fill of the kokerbome that litter this piece of heaven. The road starts out being tar but soon switches to gravel albeit smooth and fast. The landscape changes very quickly to a parched, burnt and blackened lunar landscape, called the Richtersveld. The leeching of the manganese from the rocks left an impression of a sunbaked landscape overheating in the African sun. The road follows the river course but then swings through the mountains to a height of 450m without warning and runs steadily upwards like a British Red Arrows plane pilot reaching for new heights. This is tough. I feel it for Eugene as I know he needs replenishment. Finally at the top I find a tree no higher than my waist but it is as good an excuse to stop, if any. Lunch is smoked sardines on biscuits with earl grey tea, even the queen would approve.

I go ahead to search out digs for the night which is uncertain as our "Tracks4Africa" book has run out of Namibia. Aussenkehr has become one big grape producing co-op with a resort 8km further on being our only option. The old charm has to come out once more as the place is fully booked. A mecca for all travellers to the north with everything brand spanking new. Wall to wall grass with restaurants, pub and swimming pool. We cannot contain ourselves in amazement at all this luxury. We finally settle in for a braai with custard and tinned fruit cocktail celebrating a day well travelled.

Aus to Rosh Pinah - 171km

6th September 2014

Day 11-  6 hours on a bicycle! 

Blikskottel! We knew it was going to be a long day but hell no one asked for this much in kilometers. I said to Eugene, do as much as you can but not the whole bloody day. We have not cut any corners nor cheated but what was meant to be 2 days the bliksem did in 1 day. I am telling you the boy is a damn show off. It was a long  road and this time we decided to meet up every 40km. The normal time allocated was cut by nearly half and the conditions were good. At the first stop we had the normal fill up with coke and a naartjie but more importantly to exchange ideas and philosophies. We normally leave each other with an idea and then chew on that till the next stop. By now we should have solved the world's problems but hey, we're having fun. Yes this time and space does give one a new perspective on your life.

Quiver Tree

The question people ask of me is, what makes you tag along, what do you do! Well, it does take time and planning to keep all of this together but I tend to look at my life from a totally different perspective. In fact, this is one of the topics we raised today. When you are in your own country, let alone own space, you cannot completely distance yourself. Here it is more macro and uninterrupted as you do not have phones ringing, email, daily bump and grind to taint your thoughts. Nothing here is everything and these words cannot describe the release of self and spirit. So to all of you who question why this is done … ag shame! Well my moment is here in a campsite called Namakluft a chance that surprises on these trips. It was an option better than Sophie's cabins in Rosh Pinah which didn't look so kosher and then we took the road less travelled which led to a 14km dirt road with little expectation at the end but was the stuff that makes my toes curl with excitement. Sorry I don't expect you to understand. This is the coolest campsite thus far - for me anyway. It does not have cocktails, a la carte menu or air-conditioning, but it does have a full moon, no wind, a moonlit landscape to die for with moerkoffie and biskuit . We saw a rock lizard taking his chances with a mate in the toilets, all innocent. Alright, I'll stop my jabbering, I think you guys have realised by now that this place is the business! Load shedding has already occurred here along with suspended DSTV and Facebook log out. Bliss----wish you were here!!

Helmeringhausen to Aus - 113km

4th September 2014

The hamlet of Helmeringhausen is at the junction of two roads C13 and C14 from Helmeringhausen to  Aus although the first mileage sign reads AUS 103km the discrepancy continues. The gravel roads continue to be in bad shape and I continue the battle from where I left off. Out of the blue the road gets better "as smooth as a babies bum".  The scenery is exquisite with rolling hills of flaxen grass and red rock bulging out of the grass. This is cattle country with farms extending for as far as the eye can see. 

The heat saps away your energy with marauding flies that continue to vie for attention. I continue to keep watch on the gravel path. It demands your attention. Just a slight deviation and you fight for control as the bicycle wants to jack knife like a raging bull. This is hard work. I arrive at the end my day in one piece, just about.

Curt: Okay, so Eugene has left and we are left behind to clean up and sort things out. We go into the only shop to get supplies and it is all over town that we are part of the cyclist group. Life is slow here so anything new is topical. I quite like the pace though and these farms seem to be successful. I gather up my things and leave to catch up with E. The road is great and with a steady gradient the going is good for the bicycle. I really enjoy this area - the scenery, the farming and the beautiful blonde grass, contrasted by the now more abundant green trees. I reckon that if I brought some vellies and a Toyota I could make a go of it here. 

Then the inevitable happens just as I drove up to Eugene. The hissing sound from my rear tyre means that it is time for a pit stop. We chat away while fixing the tyre and we are soon off again. The bakkie is now really looking battled scarred, with mismatched rims and a broken window covered with cardboard - all part of the experience. At the next stop Eugene works out a recipe while cycling and soon we are cutting up veg at the roadside much to the dismay of the passing tourists. What a jol, where else can one do this! Man I was having a moment, no car guards or parking to pay -just wide open spaces filled with your own thoughts. I've gotta work out a way to get a piece of this action on a more permanent basis. 

The ghost town of Kolmanskop

Aus soon arrives and we settle in to the night happily eating our new recipe and the best wifi so far - bliss!

Kolmanskop ghost town

Betta to Helmeringhausen - 108km

Day 8: 3rd September 2014

Never trust your local maps! Ours was out by 30 km which in cycling terms means an extra 1.5 to 2 hours of cycling. 

The day went on without much difference other than thick sand, long hills and hot sun. A normal gruelling day of cycling. Eugene seems to have his mojo going and dismissively says - "whatever, if I have to do another 30km then so be it". A farmer calls him insane to be cycling in the desert and offers him a cheque. 

Because of the rough terrain we have decide to do stops at 20km intervals to replenish water and to ensure that no mechanical breakdown occurs. We are surprised late in the afternoon by Shaun, Neville and Bridgette who manage to locate us. We settle into the town which is quaint and colourful even though it only has 7 houses along the main street. Someone mentions that it is the perfect setting for a western and all it needs is 2 duelling cowboys. Tomorrow seems to be another day like today and I am also falling into my routine without hassle. Can now pitch camp in 20 minutes flat!

Sesriem to Betta - 142km

After my my two days off I am ready to get back to business. I know I have a long day ahead of me. Curt and I get started at 5am, have breakfast and just before 6am we leave the camp in Sesriem. The gates are still closed and we have to get someone to let me out. Amazingly, the park is very active as people are heading for the dunes to see the sunrise. I, on the other hand, am almost 10km en route when the sun comes out. 

My journey along the C27 is in good condition and I have no difficulty managing the corrugations and the ruts. In  some places the road is cleaned regularly to preventing build up of sand at the edge or in the centre. The road gets worse as the day progresses. In  places the sand build up is so bad that I at have to push my bike to get through.

Curt: Eugene and I have to readjust our thought processes back to the road and what it demands. Our camp guests are not expected to understand that there is mental preparation needed and of course no denying they are on holiday and not in tune. Surprising what the one day's break does. It makes it all disappear so quickly. 

Well the punishment was a long gruelling 142km journey, with very little of the landscape changing. The heat is unrelenting and the road for most of the way is as straight as a die, even the gemsbok are challenging me for the one shady tree which is my next meeting point with Eugene. With 41km to go we decide that it is best that I head to the next town Betta to set up for the night as we estimate that Eugene will arrive in the dark. Well, he beats the sun and comes in just before sunset, me caught with my pants down as supper is not ready.

Sunset over Betta

Solitaire to Sesriem

We have taken two days off and spend a delightful day in Solitaire. We meet up with Shaun, Neville and Bridgette. It is great meeting up with them. We spend a wonderful evening together at Solitaire Lodge.

The next day we head for Sesriem and stay in the park. We arrive fairly early and by late afternoon we head for Sosousvlei. In the park, the road is tarred and ends a few km from the vlei. If you are a 4x4 enthusiast, this would be your opportunity to see how good you are. The next 5km is in the desert sand which takes you to the vlei and the surrounding sand dunes. The place is tranquil and there is not a sole around. We take the opportunity to climb the sand  dunes which have already seen traffic today. We follow suit. The red ochre sand is quite fascinating. All the grains are the same size and very fine. We spend about 30 minutes climbing the dunes and have to descend as it is becoming very windy. We return to watch the setting sun. We make camp by nightfall.   

Day 4: Hentiesbaaie to Walvis - 92km

We have not had Internet access for a few days now, hence the delay in the blog.

30 August is a day I would like to forget. Hentiesbaaie is just another little west coast dorpie you can find any where along the coast. The main activity that makes it so popular is that it is a fishing place and geared to do just that. Everything in this dorpie is centred around fishing. Go into any bar and you will see Oom Kalie standing with a hengse vis, a steenbrass of note which he caught in 2011 or so. You will not find any fish caught in 2014. It looks like all the big fish went on holiday and never came back. 

As I cycle along the smooth gravel road surface one cannot help but notice every couple of km the names of fishing places/spots to throw in your line. Names like  Mile 32 and Oom Bassie are just a few I can remember. The road is wide enough to accommodate all and sundry even the maniacs heading to Swakopmund. I continue along the B2 and ignore advice from Curt as the road out of Swakopmund to Walvis bay  is very hectic. The most amazing thing is that the road meanders along the dunes. It is very impressive. I must admit this is the most people I have ever encountered in one point on my journey. The truck and 4x4 is king in hierdie vestiging.  With a couple of near misses, I decide my life is far more important and I eventually give up. I take the car to Walvis to finish this leg of the journey.