Melkbosstrand to Red Cross Children's Memorial Hospital, Mowbray - 38km

Day 22: 17th September 2014

We have arrived 3 days early! 

At Red Cross Hospital

This is the last day of our trip. The memories of our journey which we started three weeks ago will be an indelible part of our lives. The hours and hours that Curt and I spoke, reminiscing, finding solutions to what made the world go round were sometimes funny and sometimes thought provoking.

I would like to thank 

• my dear friend Curt, my partner in my Journey For Haemophilia for his unwavering support and care.
• Sandy for keeping the blog up to date, her love and cheering me on.
• Fiona and the kids for sharing Curt with me.
• Bradley Rayner (SAHF) for his energy and compassion.  
• Sr Ann Cruickshank for her presence at the start.
• The Namibian Team: Dr Regina Redecker, Pastor Robert Smith and Jolandie Haywood.
• and to all my Friends!

The success of this tour would have not been possible without your love and care!

Hopefield to Melkbosstrand - 106km

Day 21: 16th September 2014

Padstal

A night at Plaasmol Padstal was wonderful. The R45 to Malmesbury takes me pass the the wind farm; 20km from Hopefield and onto a gravel road the R307 along the railway line. Only 40km and into Darling. My route takes me past Mamre and on to Atlantis which I try to avoid at all cost. The traffic is not what I expected and I make Melbosstrand with my shirt still on. Phew! 

My journey from Namibia was a wonderful experience. The South African leg of the journey was memorable for all the right reasons. I hope that my blog will serve as information to those wanting to tour South Africa:

DON'T BOTHER, TRUCK AND 4X4  ARE KING. If you really want to do this bring along a coffin with you as well … you have to go home in something.

The day has come. By now my fresh sheets and pampering beckons. We have mixed feelings about returning home. Personally its only really my family that draws me, but if there was something interesting on the horizon…..I could probably be tempted. There is so much to see and do in this world and I cannot see the comforts of home restricting me from a life out there. The situations are unique, the people different and the encounters priceless. In my earlier interactions with the outdoor life I looked at the veld and it all looked the same to me, until I started to take an interest in the fauna and flora that a whole new world opened. Reading the veld became an obsession, identifying tracks, buck species ,why proteas grow on one side of the slope, the aloes the other, the list is endless and I haven't scratched the surface. I don't need the DSTV as it gets in the way of all my reading about this subject. It has been a romance that started 10 years ago and I am still a novice in the honeymoon stage. What a privilege it has been to be this close to the road and nature to hear and smell the very nature around you. Some landscapes go on for ever and it compels you to take in all its colour, magnificence and overwhelming size, to put your life in perspective. So all the soppy philosophical stops have been pulled….but that is why I do this… to have a relationship with myself! Well done Eugene you have given me a ticket to your world and for that I am grateful!!!

Elandsbaai to Hopefield - 118km

Day 20: 15th September 2014

Elandsbaai kind of grew on me overnight. It feels much safer in the morning and the sleepy cove feel makes me consider another visit to the town. We are up as usual and continue peering into our rapidly emptying fridge and decide that bacon and eggs it is going to be. By now our clothes, bedding and just about everything needs a major overhaul and I swear even the sheep I see this morning-- if they were to wear lipstick, would look attractive to me. Yep this must be the home run!

Vlei at Elandsbaai

There is a steady climb out of the bay area and I look over my shoulder to have a last look at the resident baboon. A new and appealing side to the town emerges which I must admit was different to what we had seen before. The road for Eugene is not great but the tar gives him exceptional speed. By now he is so fit that my stops are short and my book is complaining for lack of attention. Its a beautiful drive and of course all the way to Dwarskersbos is birding country.

Iron Ore haul

Abruptly Velddrif arrives and suburbia pokes its head out with all its trappings of Spar, Pep and banks. Traffic is fast becoming a problem and we are faced with new challenges that just a short few weeks ago we would have welcomed as "nothing like our traffic" in town. We take a long uneventful drive towards Hopefield in the "hope" of finding a campsite. Nothing, but then the hospitality angel arrives and we get taken in by an eclectic family who gives us their lawn and a farmyard which they are currently converting into an eatery. Ah, it all ends well. Now for the long haul home tomorrow which becomes more dense and complicated with every km we do. But we'll deal with that tomorrow as we usually do. So far we have eaten the elephant 1 bite at time---which works for me!

Strandfontein to Elandsbaai - 98km

Day 19: 14th September 2014

                                     Doringbaai

It is a soggy day to start off with as the Atlantic mist continuously coats the sleepy resort town. I am not sure what the road ahead is like, but it is Sunday and all is quiet. Our municipal park attendant hasn't come to collect the rent so it looks like it may be Christmas in September. So off we go through Doringbaai which in itself does not seem like too bad an option as towns go, but the road drags on until the outskirts of town where we hit the dreaded gravel. By now we have gone through all the moans and grumbles and Eugene says "push on". It relentlessly winds its way through to Lambert's bay with nothing much to show. The town once again is lazy and typically West Coast, but we start noticing more Cape Town cars and Sunday drivers.

Elandsbaai

We head out along the Spoornet services road to Elandsbaai with the sea lapping along on our flank and we unceremoniously arrive in the local caravan park with Baboon Rock in the distance reminding us of its presence. We decide that this will be our last braai for the trip and pull out all the stops. We are now going through our rations closed eyes as our preferences have long been consumed up the track. Ah, to bed with the sound of crashing waves and the pleasant thoughts of loved ones soon to be seen after 3 more sleeps.

Kotzerus to Strandfontein - 127km

Day 18: 13th September 2014

                 West Coast tortoise

After some final directions from our host I am on my to the land of nowhere. Well, I have a vague idea as I am aiming for Koekenaap.I am hopeful that a tarred road will appear. A railway crossing is the first sign of life. Finally I hit tar and Namaqua Sands Mining generously offers me their asphalt.I suppose I have to be grateful for what they do for us cycling types!

End of Day

Small towns and their inhabitants in these outlying areas have their own psychology. When asking for directions things never stretch further than say 30-40km. Also responses are not given in mileage but rather visual descriptions of things like passing a water tower or some obscure hill or something totally baffling. So you humour the dude and start agreeing to not seem too disinterested, but you say to yourself, hier kom k….k . I think its their way of keeping sane and to deal with their localised environment, they say to themselves, don't go large or you may just question what you are doing in this small dorp! 
Well any route we follow out today still comes back to the same point. In fact this happens to us and we just smile at each other like two moegoes who have been taken for a ride. Even the GPS yearns for some direction in its now short lived life. Yep, this is the forgotten part of South Africa, even Pofadder, Pella or Keimoes gets more hits on the popularity ratings. If I ever want to hide from the tax man or Gerrie Nel, this would be my place of choice. We end up in Strandfontein much further than expected along with fish and chips and a pooped Eugene.
I don't know how he does it and I suppose I never will!

Wallekraal to Kotzerus - 78km

Day 17:12th September 2014

We arrived in Soebatsfontein in the late afternoon. After some investigation we found a fenced off area which we were told we could use as camp for the night. We were still unsure about our current location and after a quick call to the park we were assured of proper accommodation in an adjoining farm. We were given directions to the park. We entered the park from Soebatsfontein and were charged a park fee for entering and exiting. This was at 4pm and we were not told it was a 30km journey to the office which took just under an hour. If we had known this we would not have entered. I must say the park on the other end was spectacular and had we been there a week earlier we would have seen the daisies in all their glory. I got to see the Namaqua Park which is absolutely huge, beyond my expectations. 

Sunset at Kotzerus

The detour has cost us a bit of time and our journey begins today at Wallekraal.

The day is slow and tiring and even the gps is not playing along. The day ends off with an introduction to a very colourful character called Ettiene De Jager who runs an accommodation establishment who kindly offers us space for the night without charge. I think we needed to pay him for not only the stay but the entertainment value of his conversation as well. We look forward to tomorrow with better prospects.

Springbok to Soebatsfontein - 120km

Day 16: 11th September 2014

The landscape of Springbok is quite interesting. The N7 is the backbone to the town. The planning is not conventional so the town developed on either side of the N7 with older more established areas formed as part of the old copper mine.

My route will take me towards town of  Kleinsee (alluvial diamond territory).  The sharp incline out of town is a bit harsh for the morning. Not long after that the Sandhoogte Pass is about to add more heat. Strangely enough, there is a mist that hangs over the valley. I'm  riding with a jacket on and the downhill is cold. Not long after another climb, the  Spektakel Pass appears with an amazing downhill at least 5km long. At the  50km mark the turnoff to Kommaggas is a tarred road uncannily and the country side is dry and barren. Sheep and goats are farmed in this area. 

Uphill climb to Kommaggas

Another nasty climb awaits me at the crest and in the  distance is the town of Kommaggas, a mission town. The tar road ends here for no reason and the poorly maintained  gravel  takes over. Ever so often I have to push my bike through the loose sandy soil. The turnoff to Soebatsfontein brings no comfort. Long stretches of rolling hill and the landscape has turned the ochre soil green. Along my route I enter the Namaqua National Park. At far end of the park I enter Soebatsfontein

The stretch along here is very confusing. Fences for farms are either non-existent or neglected, sheep and goats roam freely and people tend to erect a khaya in the veld and then continue farming. Its strange I must say. The infrastructure and governance seem to have fallen by the wayside. Have there been land claims here or is it unprofitable to farm? At this rate all the vegetation will be chewed up pretty soon. Then one stumbles across these little hamlets where people seem to yearn to go to Springbok whether to seek a better existence or because there is nothing better to do … I don't get it. One thing for sure is that employment and opportunities are in short supply. On the other hand, when one enters the National Park and things seem better. Farms are more prosperous and still run by generational families. There definitely is a political vacuum here. We will see tomorrow if there is any change when we leave the park. 

Noordoewer to Springbok - 121km

Day 14: 9th September 2014

When people plan holidays to Mauritius, Greece etc. I wonder if they take into account what our subcontinent offers. Here I am awake at 6 in the morning, the sun rising with a beautiful hue which can only be experienced in Africa. The morning temperature is a moderate 12 degrees with the promise of a warm day - its spring! We depart rather hurriedly as we have to pack up the caravan to drive the 10 or so km to the border post to continue where we left off. We give a woman a lift who finds it strange that we cannot just pop back across to Namibia. My phobia of borders quickly put an end to that idea. 

Okay, so if there is a Kilimanjaro in cycling, then today is going to be one. Poor Eugene has to climb a steady 800m to get to the plateau and then a bit more further down the line. I am done trying to predict what the day is going to be like, it never works out. I will spare you the details other than to tell you that I now know what a dung beetle feels like. I think we should give Eugene the nickname of Miskruier or shit shovelled because his tenacity is put to the test today. 

We eventually settle in to the Springbok caravan park and are amazed at how full it is. They even have a SASSA official to deal with the pensions. Off to town to get my window fixed after I exported my computer to Walvis to some very needy computer thief. That is sorted in a flash by a very efficient crew at PG glass headed by Marilize. I will have my window broken any day to go back to experience their service. The day ends off with a celebratory supper at Die Grasdak restaurant then back to camp.

Noordoewer is situated very close to the Orange River. Spending the night at Aquacade Camp is amazing. The evening is peaceful with the setting sun over the Orange River Valley spectacular. My journey starts a few meters away from the boader facility on the N7 and heads up through an orange stone valley floor, a steady climb for the next 8km in the early morning. Its cool with a slight breeze blowing. The road is somewhat busy as trucks head across the border to Namibia and surrounding farms. The road has a wide shoulder with ample space for every other road user. I'm very aware that  I'm on the South African side now  where truck is king. I would like to know who trains these drivers, because, as the day progresses, my battle with truckers is a f%$^%s battle I'm going to lose one way or the other. They are inconsiderate and simply barrel along with no consideration of what the wake of the trucks does. All they consider is the load they  are carrying and of what financial value it holds after delivery. Between Steinkopf and Springbok if you plan to do a similar route get ready to do battle. The road is narrow and truckers minds even narrower. I survive to live another day. My journey will continue far away from the dreaded N7.

Aussenkehr to Noordoewer - 53km

Day 13: 8th September 2014

A night the bullfrogs put us to sleep is a night to remember. I brought along some earplugs just for occasion. The bull frog symphony continued till first light. We had a short day ahead and were not too sure about the road condition although the staff did mention a tar road all the way to the border.

After breakfast and a bit of a pack away I go on my way. The road is a black line drawn in the desert sand. A head wind makes all the difference. The road meanders along the river with its rises and falls. By midway the sun is boiling and makes the air conditioned offices at the border very attractive.

Orange River

Curt: I have an audience around me while packing up, not because of the cycling interest but as an excuse to get our campsite. Apparently, the geriatric brigade from colonial Africa couldn't sleep a wink last night because of the frogs. When in Africa … accept what comes your way. Anyway, I manage to sell off my Namibian book which will hopefully give them direction …. and the ZAR cash will come in handy as we are running thin the closer we come to the border. One promise I made to myself a while ago was that I would rather sacrifice certain things now, than spend a pension travelling when I am too old to enjoy it. I do appreciate the privilege of travelling especially without the hotel, lodges and resorts. 

Lunar Landscape

The day is like no other and we feel that we are nearing the border as all the South African influences become evident. We cross without any pain, always something I am anxious about as I seem to attract trouble at borders. Looks like my luck is changing, I think I'll play the lotto when I get to Springbok. Oh, we didn't get to eat the custard and canned cocktail fruit, but boy does it taste good tonight!

Rosh Pinah to Aussenkehr - 111km

Day 12: 7th September2014

The road from Rosh Pinah to Assenkehr

We start up early as usual but with a less hurried pace as our maps indicate 80km. That was not to be so - yet again. We drive out of the farm for  14km to the main road to Aussenkehr, but not before we have our fill of the kokerbome that litter this piece of heaven. The road starts out being tar but soon switches to gravel albeit smooth and fast. The landscape changes very quickly to a parched, burnt and blackened lunar landscape, called the Richtersveld. The leeching of the manganese from the rocks left an impression of a sunbaked landscape overheating in the African sun. The road follows the river course but then swings through the mountains to a height of 450m without warning and runs steadily upwards like a British Red Arrows plane pilot reaching for new heights. This is tough. I feel it for Eugene as I know he needs replenishment. Finally at the top I find a tree no higher than my waist but it is as good an excuse to stop, if any. Lunch is smoked sardines on biscuits with earl grey tea, even the queen would approve.

I go ahead to search out digs for the night which is uncertain as our "Tracks4Africa" book has run out of Namibia. Aussenkehr has become one big grape producing co-op with a resort 8km further on being our only option. The old charm has to come out once more as the place is fully booked. A mecca for all travellers to the north with everything brand spanking new. Wall to wall grass with restaurants, pub and swimming pool. We cannot contain ourselves in amazement at all this luxury. We finally settle in for a braai with custard and tinned fruit cocktail celebrating a day well travelled.

Aus to Rosh Pinah - 171km

6th September 2014

Day 11-  6 hours on a bicycle! 

Blikskottel! We knew it was going to be a long day but hell no one asked for this much in kilometers. I said to Eugene, do as much as you can but not the whole bloody day. We have not cut any corners nor cheated but what was meant to be 2 days the bliksem did in 1 day. I am telling you the boy is a damn show off. It was a long  road and this time we decided to meet up every 40km. The normal time allocated was cut by nearly half and the conditions were good. At the first stop we had the normal fill up with coke and a naartjie but more importantly to exchange ideas and philosophies. We normally leave each other with an idea and then chew on that till the next stop. By now we should have solved the world's problems but hey, we're having fun. Yes this time and space does give one a new perspective on your life.

Quiver Tree

The question people ask of me is, what makes you tag along, what do you do! Well, it does take time and planning to keep all of this together but I tend to look at my life from a totally different perspective. In fact, this is one of the topics we raised today. When you are in your own country, let alone own space, you cannot completely distance yourself. Here it is more macro and uninterrupted as you do not have phones ringing, email, daily bump and grind to taint your thoughts. Nothing here is everything and these words cannot describe the release of self and spirit. So to all of you who question why this is done … ag shame! Well my moment is here in a campsite called Namakluft a chance that surprises on these trips. It was an option better than Sophie's cabins in Rosh Pinah which didn't look so kosher and then we took the road less travelled which led to a 14km dirt road with little expectation at the end but was the stuff that makes my toes curl with excitement. Sorry I don't expect you to understand. This is the coolest campsite thus far - for me anyway. It does not have cocktails, a la carte menu or air-conditioning, but it does have a full moon, no wind, a moonlit landscape to die for with moerkoffie and biskuit . We saw a rock lizard taking his chances with a mate in the toilets, all innocent. Alright, I'll stop my jabbering, I think you guys have realised by now that this place is the business! Load shedding has already occurred here along with suspended DSTV and Facebook log out. Bliss----wish you were here!!

Helmeringhausen to Aus - 113km

4th September 2014

The hamlet of Helmeringhausen is at the junction of two roads C13 and C14 from Helmeringhausen to  Aus although the first mileage sign reads AUS 103km the discrepancy continues. The gravel roads continue to be in bad shape and I continue the battle from where I left off. Out of the blue the road gets better "as smooth as a babies bum".  The scenery is exquisite with rolling hills of flaxen grass and red rock bulging out of the grass. This is cattle country with farms extending for as far as the eye can see. 

The heat saps away your energy with marauding flies that continue to vie for attention. I continue to keep watch on the gravel path. It demands your attention. Just a slight deviation and you fight for control as the bicycle wants to jack knife like a raging bull. This is hard work. I arrive at the end my day in one piece, just about.

Curt: Okay, so Eugene has left and we are left behind to clean up and sort things out. We go into the only shop to get supplies and it is all over town that we are part of the cyclist group. Life is slow here so anything new is topical. I quite like the pace though and these farms seem to be successful. I gather up my things and leave to catch up with E. The road is great and with a steady gradient the going is good for the bicycle. I really enjoy this area - the scenery, the farming and the beautiful blonde grass, contrasted by the now more abundant green trees. I reckon that if I brought some vellies and a Toyota I could make a go of it here. 

Then the inevitable happens just as I drove up to Eugene. The hissing sound from my rear tyre means that it is time for a pit stop. We chat away while fixing the tyre and we are soon off again. The bakkie is now really looking battled scarred, with mismatched rims and a broken window covered with cardboard - all part of the experience. At the next stop Eugene works out a recipe while cycling and soon we are cutting up veg at the roadside much to the dismay of the passing tourists. What a jol, where else can one do this! Man I was having a moment, no car guards or parking to pay -just wide open spaces filled with your own thoughts. I've gotta work out a way to get a piece of this action on a more permanent basis. 

The ghost town of Kolmanskop

Aus soon arrives and we settle in to the night happily eating our new recipe and the best wifi so far - bliss!

Kolmanskop ghost town

Betta to Helmeringhausen - 108km

Day 8: 3rd September 2014

Never trust your local maps! Ours was out by 30 km which in cycling terms means an extra 1.5 to 2 hours of cycling. 

The day went on without much difference other than thick sand, long hills and hot sun. A normal gruelling day of cycling. Eugene seems to have his mojo going and dismissively says - "whatever, if I have to do another 30km then so be it". A farmer calls him insane to be cycling in the desert and offers him a cheque. 

Because of the rough terrain we have decide to do stops at 20km intervals to replenish water and to ensure that no mechanical breakdown occurs. We are surprised late in the afternoon by Shaun, Neville and Bridgette who manage to locate us. We settle into the town which is quaint and colourful even though it only has 7 houses along the main street. Someone mentions that it is the perfect setting for a western and all it needs is 2 duelling cowboys. Tomorrow seems to be another day like today and I am also falling into my routine without hassle. Can now pitch camp in 20 minutes flat!

Sesriem to Betta - 142km

After my my two days off I am ready to get back to business. I know I have a long day ahead of me. Curt and I get started at 5am, have breakfast and just before 6am we leave the camp in Sesriem. The gates are still closed and we have to get someone to let me out. Amazingly, the park is very active as people are heading for the dunes to see the sunrise. I, on the other hand, am almost 10km en route when the sun comes out. 

My journey along the C27 is in good condition and I have no difficulty managing the corrugations and the ruts. In  some places the road is cleaned regularly to preventing build up of sand at the edge or in the centre. The road gets worse as the day progresses. In  places the sand build up is so bad that I at have to push my bike to get through.

Curt: Eugene and I have to readjust our thought processes back to the road and what it demands. Our camp guests are not expected to understand that there is mental preparation needed and of course no denying they are on holiday and not in tune. Surprising what the one day's break does. It makes it all disappear so quickly. 

Well the punishment was a long gruelling 142km journey, with very little of the landscape changing. The heat is unrelenting and the road for most of the way is as straight as a die, even the gemsbok are challenging me for the one shady tree which is my next meeting point with Eugene. With 41km to go we decide that it is best that I head to the next town Betta to set up for the night as we estimate that Eugene will arrive in the dark. Well, he beats the sun and comes in just before sunset, me caught with my pants down as supper is not ready.

Sunset over Betta

Solitaire to Sesriem

We have taken two days off and spend a delightful day in Solitaire. We meet up with Shaun, Neville and Bridgette. It is great meeting up with them. We spend a wonderful evening together at Solitaire Lodge.

The next day we head for Sesriem and stay in the park. We arrive fairly early and by late afternoon we head for Sosousvlei. In the park, the road is tarred and ends a few km from the vlei. If you are a 4x4 enthusiast, this would be your opportunity to see how good you are. The next 5km is in the desert sand which takes you to the vlei and the surrounding sand dunes. The place is tranquil and there is not a sole around. We take the opportunity to climb the sand  dunes which have already seen traffic today. We follow suit. The red ochre sand is quite fascinating. All the grains are the same size and very fine. We spend about 30 minutes climbing the dunes and have to descend as it is becoming very windy. We return to watch the setting sun. We make camp by nightfall.   

Day 4: Hentiesbaaie to Walvis - 92km

We have not had Internet access for a few days now, hence the delay in the blog.

30 August is a day I would like to forget. Hentiesbaaie is just another little west coast dorpie you can find any where along the coast. The main activity that makes it so popular is that it is a fishing place and geared to do just that. Everything in this dorpie is centred around fishing. Go into any bar and you will see Oom Kalie standing with a hengse vis, a steenbrass of note which he caught in 2011 or so. You will not find any fish caught in 2014. It looks like all the big fish went on holiday and never came back. 

As I cycle along the smooth gravel road surface one cannot help but notice every couple of km the names of fishing places/spots to throw in your line. Names like  Mile 32 and Oom Bassie are just a few I can remember. The road is wide enough to accommodate all and sundry even the maniacs heading to Swakopmund. I continue along the B2 and ignore advice from Curt as the road out of Swakopmund to Walvis bay  is very hectic. The most amazing thing is that the road meanders along the dunes. It is very impressive. I must admit this is the most people I have ever encountered in one point on my journey. The truck and 4x4 is king in hierdie vestiging.  With a couple of near misses, I decide my life is far more important and I eventually give up. I take the car to Walvis to finish this leg of the journey.