Noordoewer to Springbok - 121km

Day 14: 9th September 2014

When people plan holidays to Mauritius, Greece etc. I wonder if they take into account what our subcontinent offers. Here I am awake at 6 in the morning, the sun rising with a beautiful hue which can only be experienced in Africa. The morning temperature is a moderate 12 degrees with the promise of a warm day - its spring! We depart rather hurriedly as we have to pack up the caravan to drive the 10 or so km to the border post to continue where we left off. We give a woman a lift who finds it strange that we cannot just pop back across to Namibia. My phobia of borders quickly put an end to that idea. 

Okay, so if there is a Kilimanjaro in cycling, then today is going to be one. Poor Eugene has to climb a steady 800m to get to the plateau and then a bit more further down the line. I am done trying to predict what the day is going to be like, it never works out. I will spare you the details other than to tell you that I now know what a dung beetle feels like. I think we should give Eugene the nickname of Miskruier or shit shovelled because his tenacity is put to the test today. 

We eventually settle in to the Springbok caravan park and are amazed at how full it is. They even have a SASSA official to deal with the pensions. Off to town to get my window fixed after I exported my computer to Walvis to some very needy computer thief. That is sorted in a flash by a very efficient crew at PG glass headed by Marilize. I will have my window broken any day to go back to experience their service. The day ends off with a celebratory supper at Die Grasdak restaurant then back to camp.

Noordoewer is situated very close to the Orange River. Spending the night at Aquacade Camp is amazing. The evening is peaceful with the setting sun over the Orange River Valley spectacular. My journey starts a few meters away from the boader facility on the N7 and heads up through an orange stone valley floor, a steady climb for the next 8km in the early morning. Its cool with a slight breeze blowing. The road is somewhat busy as trucks head across the border to Namibia and surrounding farms. The road has a wide shoulder with ample space for every other road user. I'm very aware that  I'm on the South African side now  where truck is king. I would like to know who trains these drivers, because, as the day progresses, my battle with truckers is a f%$^%s battle I'm going to lose one way or the other. They are inconsiderate and simply barrel along with no consideration of what the wake of the trucks does. All they consider is the load they  are carrying and of what financial value it holds after delivery. Between Steinkopf and Springbok if you plan to do a similar route get ready to do battle. The road is narrow and truckers minds even narrower. I survive to live another day. My journey will continue far away from the dreaded N7.

Aussenkehr to Noordoewer - 53km

Day 13: 8th September 2014

A night the bullfrogs put us to sleep is a night to remember. I brought along some earplugs just for occasion. The bull frog symphony continued till first light. We had a short day ahead and were not too sure about the road condition although the staff did mention a tar road all the way to the border.

After breakfast and a bit of a pack away I go on my way. The road is a black line drawn in the desert sand. A head wind makes all the difference. The road meanders along the river with its rises and falls. By midway the sun is boiling and makes the air conditioned offices at the border very attractive.

Orange River

Curt: I have an audience around me while packing up, not because of the cycling interest but as an excuse to get our campsite. Apparently, the geriatric brigade from colonial Africa couldn't sleep a wink last night because of the frogs. When in Africa … accept what comes your way. Anyway, I manage to sell off my Namibian book which will hopefully give them direction …. and the ZAR cash will come in handy as we are running thin the closer we come to the border. One promise I made to myself a while ago was that I would rather sacrifice certain things now, than spend a pension travelling when I am too old to enjoy it. I do appreciate the privilege of travelling especially without the hotel, lodges and resorts. 

Lunar Landscape

The day is like no other and we feel that we are nearing the border as all the South African influences become evident. We cross without any pain, always something I am anxious about as I seem to attract trouble at borders. Looks like my luck is changing, I think I'll play the lotto when I get to Springbok. Oh, we didn't get to eat the custard and canned cocktail fruit, but boy does it taste good tonight!

Rosh Pinah to Aussenkehr - 111km

Day 12: 7th September2014

The road from Rosh Pinah to Assenkehr

We start up early as usual but with a less hurried pace as our maps indicate 80km. That was not to be so - yet again. We drive out of the farm for  14km to the main road to Aussenkehr, but not before we have our fill of the kokerbome that litter this piece of heaven. The road starts out being tar but soon switches to gravel albeit smooth and fast. The landscape changes very quickly to a parched, burnt and blackened lunar landscape, called the Richtersveld. The leeching of the manganese from the rocks left an impression of a sunbaked landscape overheating in the African sun. The road follows the river course but then swings through the mountains to a height of 450m without warning and runs steadily upwards like a British Red Arrows plane pilot reaching for new heights. This is tough. I feel it for Eugene as I know he needs replenishment. Finally at the top I find a tree no higher than my waist but it is as good an excuse to stop, if any. Lunch is smoked sardines on biscuits with earl grey tea, even the queen would approve.

I go ahead to search out digs for the night which is uncertain as our "Tracks4Africa" book has run out of Namibia. Aussenkehr has become one big grape producing co-op with a resort 8km further on being our only option. The old charm has to come out once more as the place is fully booked. A mecca for all travellers to the north with everything brand spanking new. Wall to wall grass with restaurants, pub and swimming pool. We cannot contain ourselves in amazement at all this luxury. We finally settle in for a braai with custard and tinned fruit cocktail celebrating a day well travelled.

Aus to Rosh Pinah - 171km

6th September 2014

Day 11-  6 hours on a bicycle! 

Blikskottel! We knew it was going to be a long day but hell no one asked for this much in kilometers. I said to Eugene, do as much as you can but not the whole bloody day. We have not cut any corners nor cheated but what was meant to be 2 days the bliksem did in 1 day. I am telling you the boy is a damn show off. It was a long  road and this time we decided to meet up every 40km. The normal time allocated was cut by nearly half and the conditions were good. At the first stop we had the normal fill up with coke and a naartjie but more importantly to exchange ideas and philosophies. We normally leave each other with an idea and then chew on that till the next stop. By now we should have solved the world's problems but hey, we're having fun. Yes this time and space does give one a new perspective on your life.

Quiver Tree

The question people ask of me is, what makes you tag along, what do you do! Well, it does take time and planning to keep all of this together but I tend to look at my life from a totally different perspective. In fact, this is one of the topics we raised today. When you are in your own country, let alone own space, you cannot completely distance yourself. Here it is more macro and uninterrupted as you do not have phones ringing, email, daily bump and grind to taint your thoughts. Nothing here is everything and these words cannot describe the release of self and spirit. So to all of you who question why this is done … ag shame! Well my moment is here in a campsite called Namakluft a chance that surprises on these trips. It was an option better than Sophie's cabins in Rosh Pinah which didn't look so kosher and then we took the road less travelled which led to a 14km dirt road with little expectation at the end but was the stuff that makes my toes curl with excitement. Sorry I don't expect you to understand. This is the coolest campsite thus far - for me anyway. It does not have cocktails, a la carte menu or air-conditioning, but it does have a full moon, no wind, a moonlit landscape to die for with moerkoffie and biskuit . We saw a rock lizard taking his chances with a mate in the toilets, all innocent. Alright, I'll stop my jabbering, I think you guys have realised by now that this place is the business! Load shedding has already occurred here along with suspended DSTV and Facebook log out. Bliss----wish you were here!!

Helmeringhausen to Aus - 113km

4th September 2014

The hamlet of Helmeringhausen is at the junction of two roads C13 and C14 from Helmeringhausen to  Aus although the first mileage sign reads AUS 103km the discrepancy continues. The gravel roads continue to be in bad shape and I continue the battle from where I left off. Out of the blue the road gets better "as smooth as a babies bum".  The scenery is exquisite with rolling hills of flaxen grass and red rock bulging out of the grass. This is cattle country with farms extending for as far as the eye can see. 

The heat saps away your energy with marauding flies that continue to vie for attention. I continue to keep watch on the gravel path. It demands your attention. Just a slight deviation and you fight for control as the bicycle wants to jack knife like a raging bull. This is hard work. I arrive at the end my day in one piece, just about.

Curt: Okay, so Eugene has left and we are left behind to clean up and sort things out. We go into the only shop to get supplies and it is all over town that we are part of the cyclist group. Life is slow here so anything new is topical. I quite like the pace though and these farms seem to be successful. I gather up my things and leave to catch up with E. The road is great and with a steady gradient the going is good for the bicycle. I really enjoy this area - the scenery, the farming and the beautiful blonde grass, contrasted by the now more abundant green trees. I reckon that if I brought some vellies and a Toyota I could make a go of it here. 

Then the inevitable happens just as I drove up to Eugene. The hissing sound from my rear tyre means that it is time for a pit stop. We chat away while fixing the tyre and we are soon off again. The bakkie is now really looking battled scarred, with mismatched rims and a broken window covered with cardboard - all part of the experience. At the next stop Eugene works out a recipe while cycling and soon we are cutting up veg at the roadside much to the dismay of the passing tourists. What a jol, where else can one do this! Man I was having a moment, no car guards or parking to pay -just wide open spaces filled with your own thoughts. I've gotta work out a way to get a piece of this action on a more permanent basis. 

The ghost town of Kolmanskop

Aus soon arrives and we settle in to the night happily eating our new recipe and the best wifi so far - bliss!

Kolmanskop ghost town

Betta to Helmeringhausen - 108km

Day 8: 3rd September 2014

Never trust your local maps! Ours was out by 30 km which in cycling terms means an extra 1.5 to 2 hours of cycling. 

The day went on without much difference other than thick sand, long hills and hot sun. A normal gruelling day of cycling. Eugene seems to have his mojo going and dismissively says - "whatever, if I have to do another 30km then so be it". A farmer calls him insane to be cycling in the desert and offers him a cheque. 

Because of the rough terrain we have decide to do stops at 20km intervals to replenish water and to ensure that no mechanical breakdown occurs. We are surprised late in the afternoon by Shaun, Neville and Bridgette who manage to locate us. We settle into the town which is quaint and colourful even though it only has 7 houses along the main street. Someone mentions that it is the perfect setting for a western and all it needs is 2 duelling cowboys. Tomorrow seems to be another day like today and I am also falling into my routine without hassle. Can now pitch camp in 20 minutes flat!

Sesriem to Betta - 142km

After my my two days off I am ready to get back to business. I know I have a long day ahead of me. Curt and I get started at 5am, have breakfast and just before 6am we leave the camp in Sesriem. The gates are still closed and we have to get someone to let me out. Amazingly, the park is very active as people are heading for the dunes to see the sunrise. I, on the other hand, am almost 10km en route when the sun comes out. 

My journey along the C27 is in good condition and I have no difficulty managing the corrugations and the ruts. In  some places the road is cleaned regularly to preventing build up of sand at the edge or in the centre. The road gets worse as the day progresses. In  places the sand build up is so bad that I at have to push my bike to get through.

Curt: Eugene and I have to readjust our thought processes back to the road and what it demands. Our camp guests are not expected to understand that there is mental preparation needed and of course no denying they are on holiday and not in tune. Surprising what the one day's break does. It makes it all disappear so quickly. 

Well the punishment was a long gruelling 142km journey, with very little of the landscape changing. The heat is unrelenting and the road for most of the way is as straight as a die, even the gemsbok are challenging me for the one shady tree which is my next meeting point with Eugene. With 41km to go we decide that it is best that I head to the next town Betta to set up for the night as we estimate that Eugene will arrive in the dark. Well, he beats the sun and comes in just before sunset, me caught with my pants down as supper is not ready.

Sunset over Betta